As Max has already realized, exactly one year ago last night, we dined at Hen of the Wood in Waterbury, Vermont, for the first time. And, now, exactly one calendar year later, we have dined there four times -- a bit hard to believe since we live about 1200 miles away (and, trust me, it's not an easy commute from Atlanta to Vermont).
We loved the restaurant from the beginning, and each subsequent visit has both confirmed our original love and deepened it. It doesn't hurt that we've also cultivated a (mostly e-mail) relationship with William, the Dining Room Manager -- this translates into great seats and complimentary champagne as well as a friendly, smiling face each time we enter.
Last night was no exception.
William greeted us warmly, explained that our table was still occupied by some folks who were lingering longer than expected, and offered us two options -- wait for the table we've used in the past or ... sit at the relatively private bar-like table, isolated from other diners and overlooking the rapid waters of the Winooski River. (Though we had never talked about it, Max and I had both secretly coveted this table and were always jealous of the folks who were dining there on our previous visits, so we jumped at the chance.)
After being seated -- and spending a few moments basking in our good fortune to have one of the prime seats in the dining room -- we were treated to a surprise ("compliments of William"), a half-bottle of Gruet Brut champagne! This particular champagne is especially pleasing -- fruity and dry and refreshing all at the same time -- and it's bottled in New Mexico, another place that is near-and-dear to Max's heart.
After much debate, we settled on our starters. For Max, the Curly Endive and Slow-Cooked Rabbit Salad (with Toasted Hazelnuts and Buttermilk Vinaigrette) and for me, a deep, wide, and full bowl of Roasted Sweet Onion Soup (topped with a piece of buttery toast and chanterelles). Max's salad -- crunchy endive and tender rabbit tossed with the hazelnuts and the buttermilk dressing -- was quite satisfying (the right combinations of flavors and textures). We agreed, however, that the warm, rich creaminess of the onion soup was the prize winner -- every bite a spoonful of buttery, garlicky comfort.
For our mains, we selected polar opposites, Max opting for the Veal Breast with Potato Gnocchi and Zucchini while I was tempted by the Seared Divers Scallops with Braised Cabbage and Whole-Grain Mustard. (With the help of our server, we were able to find the perfect wine to suit both dishes -- an Alexandria Nicole Rhone Blend, a white wine with a pleasant floral-and-fruit bouquet and a finish as strong as a bold red.) My scallops -- giant, buttery, and tender with a nice crunchy sear on top -- contrasted perfectly with the strong mustard and cabbage concoction that accompanied them. Max's veal -- equally tender and melty -- was divine, especially when enjoyed in a giant spoonful along with the potato balls, the zucchini bits, and the warm broth.
After a glass of dessert wine (we went out on a limb here and blindly chose a Napa Valley Muscato), we enjoyed our final dishes -- a Vanilla Bean Bread Pudding with Strawberries and Almonds (and accompanied by a single candle in honor of Max's upcoming birthday) and a Milk Chocolate Pot-de-Creme, topped with Creme Fraiche and served with two tiny Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies. Max made a wish and blew out his candle and then we dove into the two sweet treats. The bread pudding was fine, definitely enlivened by the strawberries and the candied almonds, but the fancy chocolate pudding was beyond delicious, with flavor and brightness provided by the addition of the creme fraiche. Honestly, I would have been willing to bathe in a vat of the stuff!
And there you have it! Another wonderful night at the most wonderful restaurant you could imagine. And we've already secured our table -- the isolated one overlooking the river -- for New Year's Eve! We know we'll be back then and we're pretty sure that we won't be back before then, but you never know...
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